Ref. : ER/HairDye/GH-dG

Hair Dyes To ‘Dye’ or Not to ‘Dye’

Insight - The Consumer Magazine of July-August 2004 has published the test findings of its in-house comparative product testing laboratory on 14 brands of permanent hair dyes.

‘Best Buy’

Among the powder hair dyes, Black Rose Kali Mehendi scored the highest (94), and among the liquid hair dyes, Godrej Colour Soft scored the highest (86). INSIGHT has recommended both for the ‘Best Buy’ owing to their good performance and reasonable prices. Besides, they conformed to all the specifications as per the Indian Standards (IS).

The other brands tested could not conform to the specifications for packing and marking, and the para-phenylene diamine (PPD) content. Hence they were not rated and ranked.

Although IS certification is voluntary, hair dyes, be they in powder or oxidation (liquid) form, have to conform to the specifications laid down by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) as they come under Schedule S (Rule 150-A) of the Drugs and Cosmetic Rules, 1945. We tested the powder hair dyes as per IS: 10350:1999; liquid hair dyes as per IS: 8481: 2001; and the emulsion hair dye as per IS: 15205: 2002.

Brands Tested

The 14 brands tested comprised
Eight permanent powder hair dyes : Indica, Everest Kali Mehendi, Super Vasmol Aamla, Junglee Kali Mehendi, Black Rose Kali Mehendi, Bigen, Godrej Kali Mehendi and Godrej Permanent Powder Hair Dye;

Five liquid hair dyes : New Godrej, Garnier Nutrisse, Godrej Colour Soft, L’Oreal Excellence and Revlon Colorsilk; and

One emulsion-type permanent hair dye : Super Vasmol 33.

PPD Content

Looking at the controversy surrounding the PPD, the BIS has specified the content of PPD, the main colouring agent in powder hair dyes, at not more than 30 per cent in the powder form and not less than 3 per cent after dilution.

For the oxidation liquid type, it should not be more than 4 per cent in the undiluted state and not less than 1.25 per cent after dilution. Thus Bigen (1.16 per cent), Garnier Nutrisse (1.72 per cent) and L’Oreal Excellence (1.65 per cent) failed to conform.

Black Henna or Kali Mehendi vs. PPD

The PPD, a coal-tar derivative, is a chemical substance that is widely used as a permanent hair dye as it gives a natural look. However, what we come across regularly, “black henna powder” or “kali mehendi” or worse, as a brand calls itself, `Junglee Kali Mehendi’, is pure fiction as there is no such plant as — or plant that gives — “black henna”. The natural colour of henna is deep orange or burgundy. In fact, the `phenomenon’ of `black henna’ must be attributed to the PPD. It has nothing to do with henna, other than a piggyback ride from a legitimate and healthy art form turned into a marketable and highly profitable scheme that harms people.

As the PPD is cheap, unscrupulous manufacturers buy very cheap black hair dye, mix it with henna and palm it off as “black henna” or “kali mehendi” or “Junglee Kali Mehendi”.

Packing and Marking

Under Schedule S of the Drugs and Cosmetics Rules, 1945, the packing and labelling information for hair dyes has to conform to the IS requirements. They must contain all the required information for consumers on the product as well as safety. Except for Black Rose Kali Mehendi in powder form and Godrej Colour Soft in the oxidation liquid form, all other brands failed to fully comply with the IS directions.

Performance Test

Although none of the standards specifies a sensory test, the laboratory went ahead to test the actual performance of the dyes on the hair, looking at the value-for-money aspect from the consumers’ point of view. This test helped us find out which brand of hair dye lasted longer on the hair, i.e., gave more for less.

The panellists ranked them with marks as per visual observation of colour fading in the 5-point progressive range of ‘very prominent fading’, ‘prominent fading’, ‘slight fading’, ‘very slight fading’ and ‘no fading’. Grey human hair was bought in the form of switches, i.e. bunches of loose hair tied at one end. On a scale of 100 points the panellists awarded the switches marks ranging from 94 to as low as 38.

Does More PPD Mean More Colour?

It was found that dyes with a higher PPD content (high dye ready to use) showed slight fading to prominent fading in the lab’s performance test, while dyes with less PPD also performed well.

However, in liquid hair dyes it was observed that dyes with a higher PPD content and active dye content performed better. So as is confusing to consumers, so was it for our scientists as no direct corelationship could be established between dye content and colour fastness.

How Safe Are Dyes?

Therefore, it appears that apart from the PPD, other ingredients, the formulation, the manufacturing process, etc., also play a role in the overall performance of hair dyes.

At the same time, many questions have primarily been raised about the safety of using hair dye. Besides allergies, hair dye has come under scrutiny in recent years due to a possible link to various types of cancer.

Although not all experts agree, many believe that a leading cause of hair colour allergic reactions are related to the PPD. Others argue that serious reactions in hair colour can be linked to ingredients such as ammonia, peroxide or diaminobenzene.

Does all this scary information about hair colour chemicals mean that you shouldn’t colour your hair?

The experts seem to disagree and detailed studies are continuing. For the most part the findings are still inconclusive. As consumers, weigh various options and, if possible, use it sparingly as studies are still inconclusive.

Chemical Tests

All the 14 brands of dyes — powder, liquid and emulsion — were put to the chemical tests for pH (acid content), total active matter, and dye ready for use (dye/PPD content).

All the liquid dyes and the lone emulsion-type dye were put to additional individual tests like hydrogen peroxide concentration, Eco Mark (lead and arsenic concentration) and concentration for fatty matter as well as density. They all met the standard specifications.

The Acid Factor

In the test for pH, carried out to determine the acid balance of the hair dyes, all the brands conformed to the IS limit, i.e. powder (6-10), liquid (9-11) and emulsion (7-9). Too much of acid in your dye will cause severe skin irritation and may make the hair brittle, dull, and ultimately fall. A low acidic content, on the other hand, will affect the dye performance.

As a policy, before publishing the results we convey the test findings to all the manufacturers for their views and comments. They receive only the results of their own products. There was no response from the manufacturers of Bigen, Everest Mashoor Kali Mehendi and Junglee Kali Mehendi. Details of rating and ranking, the ‘Best Buy’ and excerpts of our correspondence with the manufacturers have been published in the July-August 2004 issue of Insight - The Consumer Magazine.

Date : 27/09/2004
Place : Ahmedabad

Pritee Shah
Editor
INSIGHT - The Consumer Magazine

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Opinions, test results and research findings issued through this Press Release cannot be used in any form directly or indirectly for advertising, promotional or commercial purpose.

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